About spliced ropes
A spliced rope is a ready-to-use rope, meaning that it can be installed on board instantly. These ropes have been spliced previously in our workshop in Concarneau. The first ending, the high ending, forms a spliced eye and allows the rope to be connected to the sail, thanks to a connector. The other end, the lower end, is also spliced with a constrictor ending, a messenger line (to be able to slip the rope in the mast, boom, clutches and so on..) or a specific ending (cover spliced for endless line for instance)…
Not only is the spliced eye practical to connect the rope to the sail with a connector, it also lets you enjoy almost 100 % of the rope’s load. A bowline knot reduces the breaking load by about 50 %!
Searching for a spliced rope
Select your sailing type (cruising, offshore cruising, regatta, offshore racing), the type of halyard (halyards, sheets, various lines) or write the name of the line in the search bar. Choose a product and select the diameter, length, colour, type of connector (soft shackle, stainless steel shackle or no connector) the rendering (Dyneema® cover at the top of the halyard for example)
Our calculator helps you choose the rope length and diameter.
About rope diameter
- You want to replace a rope: take the same diameter of rope as what is already installed.
- You want lower diameter: check deck fittings’ characteristics (clutches, blocks, winches, and so on.).
- You want more efficient rope but the deck fittings don’t allow for reduced diameter: our product with mixed Dyneema ® polypropylene core is an excellent compromise for cruising, providing rigidity (for more precise tuning) and lightness but without reducing the diameter too much and without adding weight.
Measure the diameter with a calliper on two or three places, where the rope isn’t damaged (flattened by the clutch for example.)
About rope elongation
Elongation corresponds to the elasticity of the rope. There are two distinctive origins to elongation: the nature of the fibre (polyester is more elastic than Dyneema ® for example) and the structure of the rope (a braided core is less elastic since the strands, forming S shapes, do not operate in the rope direction: cf. braiding pitch). We don’t have the elongation percentage of the ropes, but only that of the materials composing them, notably 13.4% for polyester and 3.6% for Dyneema ®.
Premium products add more precision in tunings because they have less elongation.
About online purchases
We ensure the delivery of our ready-to-use spliced ropes as soon as possible: receive your product in a few days! If you aren’t satisfied, for whatever reason, return your order and exchange it.
Constrictor Textile Clutches
How to choose the diameter of a textile clutch?
For the rope to hold in an optimal way in the Constrictor textile clutch, choose the diameter according to the recommendations of the manufacturer (Cousin Trestec) indicated in the Ino-Rope product file.
It may be preferable to choose a higher diameter of textile clutch if:
- you want to favour a fast “ease” (spinnaker sheet for example). Make sure that the load bearing is sufficient. For a 6 mm diameter rope for example, Constrictor N°6 holds 750 kg. Constrictor N°8 withstands 700 kg (for 6 mm) and the ease will be far more efficient. For this diameter of rope, better opt for N°8.
- the rope is used for low loads: the important friction of the rope in the clutch’s sleeve may make the “ease” difficult.
- over time, salt and dust accumulate in the fibres of the rope’s cover. Old ropes are rougher and lose flexibility, which increases friction and prevents fast easing. To avoid this, when wintering, pop your ropes into the washing machine, possibly with some fabric softener!
About the installation of a textile clutch
The tension of the elastic (Sandow) – and its length – must be sufficient for two reasons: to ensure the rope holds in the textile clutch and allows the latter to open. Refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations. The length of the sleeve and maximum bulk of the textile clutch (base + sleeve + trigger) are indicated in the product specifications.
Should you need to shorten the trigger elastic because of the bulk on deck, the solution may be to veer it (with a small friction ring for example), while making sure it pulls in the rope direction.
An embeddable textile clutch exists, to pass ropes through decks, panels, coaming, or on racing boats through the cuddy.
About the remote control of a clutch
One of the advantages of the Constrictor Textile Clutch is that it can be controlled remotely: you can place it on the roof or mast foot and operate it from the cockpit. It can also be installed at the top of the mast to replace the mainsail hook system. To operate the textile clutch remotely, simply make the trigger longer.
The trigger line ends with a plastic ball that opens the clutch while releasing the tension of the sleeve. If you operate the textile clutch remotely and want to keep it in the open position, the plastic ball must be replaced with another blocking system: a clam cleat or cam cleat (dinghy models).
The textile clutch is delivered with a trigger rope of 3 mm of diameter in Dyneema ® (high modulus polyethylene). We recommend extending it with a line in Vectran ® (aramid fibres) core and polyester cover. The Dyneema ® core prevents the trigger from being elastic and allows you to feel what you are doing remotely. The polyester cover is indispensable for it to hold in the cleat: Dyneema ® is too slippery for this use.
We recommend that you mark the line so as not to pull too hard on the trigger line, which would wear out the elastic.
Be careful not to cause an accidental release of the textile clutch by tripping on the line: this could be very painful with a spinnaker tack!
About the ropes
Constrictor textile clutches are compatible with most ropes, except those in high modulus polyethylene (except if the rope cover is made of other fibres, of course). High modulus polyethylene (Dyneema ®) is too slippery to ensure the cover to hold efficiently in the clutch.
About the replacement kit
Maintenance of the Constrictor textile clutch consists in rinsing it with freshwater. If the Technora ® sleeve isn’t UV protected, it must be replaced every two or three years or when bobbles appear on the cover, showing that it is wearing out. This is an easy operation to do yourself. Ino-Rope sells a replacement kit including the sleeve, trigger and elastic cords.
Textile standing rigging
How do I replace my stainless steel standing rigging (stays) with textile?
The answer is clear: by offering you the services of our professional seafarers and providing them with all the information necessary to draw up a personalized quote.
Do not get into the seamanship of the standing rigging for several reasons:
– first of all in terms of liability with regard to your insurance (a professional is insured for this type of service, not you!)
– for technical reasons (the calculation of the sampling is not done with a wet finger and must be validated by a professional)
– because the seamanship of the standing rigging requires equipment to obtain the correct length of stay and above all to reproduce it (pre-stretching at the workload to integrate the initial elongation due to the tensioning of the braid).
– the manufacture of a textile stay is tricky, in particular because of the management of its “installation”, a concept that is also called “structural elongation” and which is totally different from that of fiber elongation: a braid “falls into place” (reaches its finished length) between zero and a few hundred pounds. It is therefore very difficult to find a compromise between a sufficient length for the installation of the rigging (to be able to fix the turnbuckle on the chain plate) and a finished length once the shroud has been pre-stretched to the workload.
How do I replace my stainless steel backstay/running runners/lower forestay with textile?
Be careful, sampling textile cables (backstays, running backstays, lower stays) is not easy: if you do not entrust this work to a professional, you are responsible. In addition, the manufacture of a textile cable to a precise length is very difficult to achieve without solid knowledge of seamanship and a pre-stretching solution (Ino-Rope has a traction bench equipped with a measuring device of the load). The difficulty is not in the seamanship but in the sizing and pre-stretching of the braid. Our seamen can take care of this work for you if you wish, do not hesitate to come back to us for a quote.
– About the length of the cables: you must obtain a finished length equal to that of your stainless steel cable and this after pre-stretching to the working load of the rope. About the diameter of the cables: if you sail in hot areas, do not hesitate to oversize the braid to prevent the Dyneema from stretching with the heat. Indeed, Dyneema melts around 140°C and elongates under load from 30°C to 40°C.
– About Bend Radius: To take advantage of the maximum rope load, the minimum bend radius at the spliced eye should be twice the braid diameter (shaft or thimble diameter -heart passed in the eye at least twice equal to that of the braid).
Which braid should I choose for my backstay/runners/forestay?
Ino-Rope offers you three references for your textile cables. The stiffest rope (almost zero elongation) is the Dyneema ® SK99 braid, in single braid, or double braid (with a Dyneema SK78 sheath). Depending on your boat and your program, you can also use the Dyneema ® SK78 STS (pre-stretched hot) braid with long braid pitch.
Choosing a rope for lazy-jacks
We offer a wide range of ropes that can be cut, among which a 100% polyester hollow braid, perfectly adapted to the creation of lazy-jacks, easy to splice and UV and abrasion resistant.
About friction rings for lazy-jacks
If you want to assemble lazy-jacks with small friction rings, head for the online shop. We recommend reference R10.07.
About the reliability of Ino-Blocks
Ino-Blocks are just as efficient under heavy loads as traditional blocks (thanks to a minimal friction between the Dyneema ® axle and the high quality anodised aluminium sheave) but they are noticeably lighter, more compact and much more reliable (security coefficient of 3). And for a long time and with minimum maintenance. Even after several transatlantic crossings or around the world racing, Ino-Blocks can be re-assembled after a simple check-up.
Much more reliable than any other block for static heavy loads, Ino-Blocks can be found on offshore racing sailing boat backstays.
Unlike ball-bearing blocks, the efficiency of Ino-Blocks increases with the load. After the running-in phase, the Dyneema ® axle polishes and becomes even more slippery.
3D animation of the Ino-Block
Ino-Blocks on board Maître Coq IMOCA and La Fabrique IMOCA
Ino-Blocks offshore racing on board Django 9.80
Ino-Blocks on board Benoît Marie’s foiler moth
Ino-Block live from the Southern Atlantic on board IDEC Sport trimaran
The advantages of Ino-Block compared to traditional blocks
About the 2.1 halyard blocks
Positioned at the sail head, the 2.1 halyard block must be as light as possible to limit weight at heights. Much lighter than any ball-bearing or friction blocks, Ino-Blocks are perfectly suited for this use.
Ino-Blocks can replace traditional 2.1 halyard shackles, by considerably reducing friction.
About breaking load
The names of the Ino-Blocks (2.4, 3.6, 5.4 and so on.) refer to the breaking load, and not the working load. The working load corresponds to the range of tension in which it is recommended to use the block.
Let’s take an Ino-Block 7.2: its working load is 2.4 t.
Connected Resources : Ino-Block 7.2
How to make a lashing on a block
For the permanent connection of blocks via a lashing: rather than having to choose the right Dyneema ® braid and splice it yourself, why not choose our ready-to-use lashings. The spliced eye allows for a lark’s head connector, on mast foot chain plate for instance.
The resistance of a run (two strands) is about equal to the braid’s breaking load.
For every load to be equally spread out between the strands and ensure the lashing is resistant, the latter must comprise between two and four runs.
For a 5 t load for example, you’d better to do three runs with a Dyneema ® braid of 5 mm of diameter rather than five runs with 4 mm.
The surface must be impeccably clean to avoid abrasion.
How to assemble Ino-Block Light
The Ino-Block LIGHT is a light, compact, reliable, efficient and cost-effective block, adapted to dinghy sailing and cruising alike. The Ino-Block LIGHT was designed/conceived with an innovative connecting system, the I-Connect LIGHT, which allows for a 0° or 90° assembly, according to the needs of the block direction.
The lashing version requires more precautions during assembly; it is intended for blocks that are not moved once they’ve been installed (available on demand).
About mainsail sheet purchases
Due to rubbing, you rarely find purchases with more than six strands (6:1) on board of sailing boats. The solution to limit friction is to assemble cascade purchases. A cascade is a two strand purchase (2:1) on which another purchase is attached. The principle consists in, with equal multiplication, to increase the output by reducing the number of strands. Cascades, whose course is limited, are not adapted to mainsail sheet which requires important length to be able to haul/ease wide.
In regattas, the solution is to set up a fine purchase to adjust upwind. But this system is complicated to set up because it requires a lot of deck fittings.
When cruising, the double purchase of mainsail sheet (two strands assembled on one swivel base which can be manoeuvred separately) is an interesting compromise because it is simple to set up. For a 4:1/8:1 purchase, the demultiplication is of 4 to 1 (4:1) when you haul both strands at once. It is of 8 to 1 (8:1) when you haul only one strand. This system allows for a two-speed purchase: fast (4:1), to haul/ease a long length of sheet and slow (8:1), for fine tunings or when tension is high.
Make sure the two strands are more or less balanced: if you always pull on the same strand, you will end up with all the sheet length on one side and nothing on the other!
Connected Resources :
Choosing sleeve material
A sleeve is an additional width of cover applied locally on a rope. The material(s) of the sleeve depends on its function. If the sleeve’s purpose is to protect the rope from chafing (sheave, mast) or to reduce friction in deck fittings, you should use high modulus polyethylene (Dyneema ®). To increase the hold in clutches or around winches, you should choose a cover that contains aramid fibres.
- Connected Links:
Choosing the width of Dyneema ® sleeve
Ino-Rope has different types of Dyneema ® sleeves to offer. Fine sleeves are destined to rig textile connectors. This product can be used as a sleeve for moderate uses. Thick sleeves provide optimal protection against chafing in intensive uses.
Choosing the sleeve diameter
To find out which diameter to choose, refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations. These appear in the rolling menu of our product file. For example, to sleeve a halyard of 8 mm of diameter, you should choose a sleeve of 8-10 mm of diameter.
Don’t take too large a diameter, thinking “he who can do more, can do less”: if the sleeve isn’t “smoothed” correctly, it may create a lump and get stuck in deck fittings.
The rope diameter becomes more important on the sleeve: make sure the latter can go through the different deck fittings.
If the rope has been spliced on the part that needs to be sleeved, choose a larger size of sleeve (for a rope of 10 mm of diameter, a sleeve of 10-12 mm will suit).
Calculating the length of the sleeve
On top of the length of the sleeve, add that of splices (20 cm on each end) and the margin linked to the sleeve’s tapering. The tapering corresponds to the length lost linked to the increase in diameter of the splice (the sleeve is shorter once placed on the rope). You have to add between 15 and 30% of extra length compared to the “finished” length. For example: 1.2 m for a “positioned” length of 1m, with a taper of 20% – add 2 x 20 cm for splices, so that’s 1.6 m in total.
Sleeve over 1 m minimum, otherwise you may not cover the area to protect entirely, or make another mistake.
If the cover is damaged due to chafing but the core is not affected, you can:
- Reverse the direction of the rope (as long as the damaged part isn’t exposed to chafing once again)
- Replace your rope
- Replace the cover (for such rigging, feel free to contact a professional)
- Sleeve the part where the snag is (if it isn’t too extensive).
You’ve noticed chafing on your rope. Putting a sleeve on it to protect it is an excellent initiative but before doing so, make sure this is usual wear and not a deck fitting flaw (do the sheaves spin correctly?).
Connected Links :
Putting a sleeve on a rope
Our book Modern Ropework & Sailing Knots (for beginner riggers and professionals alike) has a full tutorial to learn how to put a sleeve on a rope like a pro.
How do you know when a rope has twisted?
Twisting is very frequent on 2.1 halyards and can cause real problems when manoeuvring (hull formation). Twisting is even more problematic as it also leads to a rope’s loss of load. In 80% of cases, twisting comes from a faulty rope installation. Unfortunately, this fault is fatal since it isn’t possible to untwist a sheet (or any other line) once it has been put under load. The very structure of the braid has been damaged. There is no other solution than to replace the twisted rope.
- to know whether a rope has twisted, look whether the crossings that the strands create are in the rope direction or if they go around it.
- before replacing a twisted rope, make sure the twist doesn’t come from a wrong rotation of deck fitting elements (blocks and sheaves) that make up the purchase (2.1 halyard or others)
- don’t do the same mistake by setting up a new 2.1 halyard: pass it through the mast, drop it down the mast in a straight way down to the bottom and hit the fixed point of the purchase at the top of the mast.
About our custom lifelines
To make your life easier and to be sure to save it, we have created customed lifelines made of Dyneema ®, both solid and resistant to abrasion (no very tight braiding). The Dyneema sheath offers two other advantages: it is particularly light and its flat shape prevents the lifeline from rolling under the foot.
– Our ready-to-use lifelines are fixed at each end by means of a Dyneema ® transfilage, supplied with the kit.
– Check that the lifeline attachment points have an impeccable surface condition in order to avoid any risk of abrasion of the threading. And of course these attachment points must be at least as strong as the lifeline.
How to make your life lines yourself
You can put together your lifelines yourself in Dyneema ® sheath (rope available on our online store) but keep in mind that these are safety devices. So don’t take any risks! Be rigorous in your seamanship, ensuring in particular that you strictly respect the spliced lengths.
– The lifelines stretch during installation (once they are loaded) due to the compaction of the braid. Make a larger spliced eye at one end so that you can shorten the line later if necessary (getting a spliced line with an accurate finished length is not an easy exercise!). The ideal is to anticipate this lengthening before using the lines in navigation and therefore to pre-stretch them after having made the splices.